South America & Chilean Fjords – Sailing to Montevideo, Uruguay

HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Hope everyone had a good New Year’s Eve celebration and are looking forward to a better new year than 2022.

I said a bit about the party here, but the real celebration came on 1 January. The Viking crew went all out with a ‘holiday brunch’ – the selections of food were amazing.

They offered lobster rolls with almost an entire tail in it, foie gras, a marvelous Rossini steak with crab, tiger prawns, foie gras, steak tartare, eggs benedict two ways, salmon three different ways, broiled cod, gravlax, soft shell crab, herring, and so many other things to mention. And the desserts were culinary prizes: cheesecake, Bananas Foster (must not be a Southern on board because there was no ice cream), donuts, (with all calories removed!). There was enough food that we didn’t need to eat anymore til late night. And the requisite bloody marys, mimosas and wine flowed continuously.

Today was the last day of my photography course and we were to submit our favorite picture from the cruise – mine was the first one displayed as an example of good photography – I have to say I am really proud of it. This was the moonrise at 10:35 pm while we were sailing.

Some people in the class use DSL cameras and often discount the quality of photos from a cell phone, but as long as I can get ones like this, why carry a cumbersome camera around. The other one that I really like was one that I didn’t even know I took – Karen and I were trying to navigate the uneven peat (I had the treking pole).

Karen has taken some bridge lessons and been playing duplicate bridge with our friend Pat almost every day. This has whet her appetite to continue playing once we get home. There is a group who play on Monday night, but that conflicts with her ‘Mystic Mavens’, but I am sure she can find people who are interested in playing another night.

Every day there are several educational programs about things of interest about the area where we are docking: the real story of Evita Peron, Che Guevara (whose real name was Ernesto), myths and legends of South America, and a whole lot more. The day before we dock, there is a ‘port talk’ that gives interesting information about where we will be going and what we will be seeing on the excursion. There is always an included excursion and then optional ones you can select. We have probably done about half the included and selected special ones (i.e., visiting the penguins at Bluff Cove).

We have discovered the really great thing about ocean ships is that you have intermittent days at sea which gives you time to rest up for the next port. On river cruises, there are excursion planned every day.

Here’s the story on my bum knee: I had six weeks of physical therapy on my knee and hip before we left Columbus because my problematic right knee is calcified. The physical therapist ran me through some tests and said it was better and keep stretching and walking. Well, in my usual Type A way, I started walking down from the 7th deck to the 4th and up from the 2nd deck to the 4th. . . a little too much! By the time we hit the Amalia Glacier, I was limping a lot. The next morning I couldn’t put any weight on it at all. We went to the medical center (which is fully equipped) and they wrapped it, gave me some muscle relaxants, and told me to take it easy. They had taken me down in a wheelchair and that has been how I have gotten around since then. Miz Peeler is getting very adept at rolling me around! – we don’t even run into things anymore!

I have graduated to walking short distances and not having to use the treking pole. But we are still taking long distances (more than about 20-30 steps) in the wheelchair. It is amazing how many people you meet when you are traversing the narrow halls in a wheelchair. Everyone has been very helpful getting us over the rough spots.

I need to get mobile before we get to Buenos Aires (Wednesday) because Karen has all kinds of things planned. And I guess, a trip to an orthopedist is in order when I get back home. ARGH!!!

 

MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay, and sits on the Plata River. The city was established in 1724 by a Spanish soldier as a strategic move during the Spanish-Portuguese dispute over the rea. It was under brief British rule in 1807, but eventually the city was retaken by the Spanish. Unlike the rest of South America, As of 2010, Montevideo is the 19th largest city economy in the continent and 9th highest income earner among major cities, with a per capita of $30,148.

Montevideo hosted the first FIFA World Cup in 1930 when the Olympics would not allow soccer to be included in the games. They had six months to create a 90,000-seat stadium, and did it by working 24-hours a day. They still host most of the World Cup games in South America.

Education is so extremely important that the state guarantees and pays for primary and college education. It costs a family $6 to join the healthcare system for a family, with a $5 charge per office visit. The schools teach in Spanish, but require every student to be proficient in English. Each student in the country is given a computer so that they can connect to the internet, and take online courses to supplement their education.

Uruguay did not suffer the same economic tragedies that the rest of the countries did. Argentina closed all their banks which caused panic. The brother of the leader of Uruguay was a pianist in Miami and a friend of Jeb Bush. The government approached Bush and the U.S. government gave them a loan to ensure that people could get their money. This instilled faith in the country and now they are exporters of steak, leather, wine, cellulose, and beef. This is the beef capital of the area. The port of Montevideo is the major shipping facility on the east side of South America.

Out of our window we can see some of the shipping; there is a group of derelict ships that sank since World War II and they have lagooned then with rocks. Don’t know if they are ever going to remove them.

It was a phewy day: cloudy, rainy and windy so seeing out of the bus windows was not very productive. The city has lots of building and varied architecture; a really eclectic mix of Spanish, British, Uruguayan and Argentinean. Here is some of the architecture that we saw from the inner city:
capitolcity park

government building

Montevideo has approximately 20 miles of white beaches with a
promenade. People come from Argentina, Paraguay and Chile to visit the beaches. When we were there the waves crashing on the rocks was pretty intense.

 
We had a very pleasant dinner with two gentlemen, one a retired lawyer and the other a retired pediatrician. Turns out Monte also has lupus so we talked about the we went through for proper diagnosis and current medications. I think Karen and Steven talked politics. It was a great ‘last night’ dinner.

Tonight we have to begin to pack things up, because our luggage has to be outside our door at 4 AM Wednesday morning, when we will move to a Hilton Hotel in the center of Buenos Aires. . . there is a lot of ‘cr…p’ to be packed! DO we remember we weren’t going to buy a lot of stuff? NO!

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South American & Chilean Fjords – on to the New Year

Happy Hogmanay Day!
Hogmanay is the Scots word for the last day of the year and is synonymous with celebrating the year in true Scottish style. Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Street Party is famous around the world, with visitors traveling from around Scotland and beyond to soak up the Scottish celebrations. Nobody knows for sure where the word ‘Hogmanay’ came from. It may have originated from Gaelic or from Norman-French. What we do know, is that in Scotland, it means a good time surrounded by friends, ceilidh dancing and laughter. Famous Scottish poet Robert Burns’ Auld Lang Syne is sung to celebrate the start of the New Year at the stroke of midnight, not just in Scotland but in many countries around the world.

So, Happy Hogmanay Day to all!

It’s hard to believe that we have been on the ship for THIRTEEN days and have another five before we disembark in Buenos Aires!

Little bits of information: I have received questions about the weather down here. Everyone thinks it is always warm, but as we found out, that is not true, even though this is South America’s summer (the seasons are reversed from North America). And the days are much longer.

.                       Temp  Sunrise   Sunset
18 December   68      6:33         8:53
19 December   65      6:34         8:54
20 December   64     6:30         9:17
21 December   72      6:14          9:25
22 December   48     6:05         9:57
23 December   47     5:44       10:16 (Amalia Glacier – avg temp 0)
24 December   60     5:14       10:12
25 December   61      4:54      10:14
26 December   40     4:42      10:10 (Cape Horn – water temp 46)
27 December   44     4:14         9:30
28 December   51     4:34         9:12
29 December   51     5:04         9:07
30 December   80    5:44         9:01
31 December   64     5:41         8:44

Between Amalia Glacier and Cape Horn are lots of glaciers and pretty hefty winds. Cape Horn is just a little over 400 miles from Antarctica, where the temperature ranges from -76 to 14 degrees.

Sorry, but more beautiful sunrises!

Thursday was a day at sea so there isn’t much to report.

PUERTO MADRYN, ARGENTINA
Puerto Madryn is Argentina’s second-largest fishing port, nestled in a cove protected by mountains. In the 19th century, Argentina encouraged emigration from European countries to come to this remote Patagonian area. Welsh immigrants arrived and settled along the Chubut River. They came to be able to perpetuate their Welsh traditions and language, which Britain had banned.
 

GAIMAN, ARGENTINA
As we drove (for over an hour) to the Welsh town of Gaiman, the landscape was desolate and the most uninhabitable desert with scrub bushes. You could understand why the Welsh kept moving and settled in a more hospitable place. However, there were several wind turbine farms along the way. What was interesting is that all the power and telephone poles are poured concrete – there is almost no trees so they had to use something else.

Welsh tea is a Welsh family custom. It is part of the culture of Gaiman and tourists find it to be entertained in different “Tea Houses”: Tea with its typical Welsh black cake, cream cake, walnut cake, apple pie,  chocolate cake with cream, and cakes with fruits, sweets and regional butter, scones and homemade bread. We had  tea at Ty Gwyn Casa del Té.

The schools in Gaiman teach both Gaelic/Welsh and Spanish so all children area bilingual. During our tea a choir sang to us in Welsh.

This was a surprise and enjoyable, but driving one hour to-and-fro to have tea and hear them sing made this one of the worse excursions so far. Instead of commenting about what we were seeing, the guide slept most of the way. Unfortunately for her, she asked me to fill out a comment card and she wasn’t very happy about my polite, but accurate assessment. When we leave the ship we will make sure and note that on the comments.

Gaiman is a cultural and demographic centre of the main region of the Welsh settlement in Argentina, known in Welsh as Y Wladfa Gymreig. Settled 1885, they have preserved the first house built; they have intentional built in the Welsh manner to preserve their heritag. The town’s name originates in an indigenous Tehuelche place-name meaning “rocky point.” The school looks more like a church.

This was an interesting structure in a flat field – never didn’t find out what it was.
 
 
 
 
 
NEW YEAR’S EVE
New Year’s Eve was quite an event onboard. Everyone got a hat or tiara and noisemaker, and there were balloons all over the ship. It was fun watching the crew try to create balloon arches when the boat was rocking and the winds blowing.

Twenty-two of the LGBTQIA+ cruisers met before dinner for ‘special’ drinks – I can forego rainbow-colored sparkling wine for a long time. However, I discovered that lavender liqueur in it is really good. They had reserved an area in the restaurant for us.

Almost all of us had crispy soft-shelled crab, lobster thermador, and Grand Marnier souffles. In place of the crab, I had a Russian salad made with beef tongue (ok, Alison, you can gag!), which I hadn’t had in a long, long time. The wine flowed and no one was feeling any pain. This was the only meal served, and can’t imagine how many people it took to make perfect souffles for all these people!

We have met a couple women from Ithaca NY and can see that we will become fast friends. We have several meals with them. Ithaca is a good stopping point from the northeast, so they may be seeing us again.

Viking had removed the partitions between the pool deck and Wintergarten, making a huge area for the celebration. Entertainment started at 9:30 and ran continuously until after midnight. We were talking to Edward, the Cruise Director, and he had many burner phones around the area all calibrated on the same time so they wouldn’t miss midnight. The ship operates on GPS time, which can be as much as 1 minute off in either direction.

Karen went up to the party, but I came back down fairly soon because there really wasn’t anyone we knew; most of the guys in our group had done the same. I went back to the room where they were livestreaming the whole thing so I could get off my leg.

The requisite midnight kiss was delivered and I fell asleep. Karen stayed awake to listen to the OSU-Georgia football game until the final field goal that sealed OSU’s fate.

Here’s to 2023, which, surely, will be better than 2022.

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South America & Chilean Fjords – Land of Penguins, Sheep and Belted Cows

Can’t seem to stop taking photos of sunrises:

Tuesday was spent at sea, resting my bum knee.

FALKLAND ISLANDS
The Falkland Islands are an archipelago in the ‘middle of nowhere’, 300 miles east of Argentina. It is believed that they were once attached to the mainland, but were separated during one of the ice ages. There is some evidence that there were inhabitants and animals on the Falkland Islands as early as 1400 BC, but no indication of how they got there or whether they established communities.

One of the most spectacular sights are what the locals call ‘the stone river’. A stone river is a rock landform resulting from the erosion of particular rock varieties caused by freezing-thawing cycles in periglacial conditions during the last Ice Age (around 115,000 years ago).

There are actually two islands: East Falkland and West Falkland. The first settlements on each of the islands were not aware that there were settlements on the other island, so multiple ports were established for protection of the waterway.

Colonization of the Falkland Islands began in the 18th century and has been a matter of controversy, having been claimed by the French, British, Spaniards and Argentines at various points. The Falkland War in 1982 was an attempt by Argentina to seize the islands, but Margaret Thatcher sent the British armada over 8,000 miles and they defeated the Argentinean forces. According to our guide, Argentina still is constantly harassing the islanders by restricting travel and trade with Chile and other South American countries. The sole source of income for the islanders is tourism and fishing, so restricting the selling of fish has had a serious impact on their economy.

Port Stanley, where we docked is known as the ‘Penguin Capital of the World’ for its five species of penguins (empire, king, gentoo, Magellanic, Southern rockhoppers). At last count, there were over a million penguins on the island. We were greeted by some very lazy, sunning seals on the pier.

We visited the Bluff Cove penguin farm; originally it was started as a sheep and cattle farm; sheep and Galloway belted cattle roam the hills. But now the penguins dominate the landscape. Each of the species are separated into enclosures (to protect them from us), partly because they tend to get territorial and defend their waddle – what a perfect name!

The ground is mainly peat, so it is uneven; we had to help each other – kind of like the ‘blind leading the lame’ (didn’t realize I had taken this picture). Thank God, Karen had brought a treking pole, because otherwise I would not have been able to get around.

We took the extended tour because Karen wanted to make sure she saw a penguin. Well, she got her wish – this little guy kept following her around.

Reading all those classic novels about sailing, I had always believed that the albatross bird was a sign of impeding disaster. . . the Falkland Islands have the largest colony of black-brown albatross in the world.
 
 
 

In the front of Christ Church Cathedral is a whalebone arch monument, made from the jaws of two blue whales, erected in 1933 to commemorate the hundred anniversary of British rule in the Falkland Islands. In 1886 a peat slide destroyed the building, which was later rebuilt from funding from Queen Elizabeth II.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So, if you are visiting a waddle of penguins, I have only one piece of advice:

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South America & Chilean Fjords – ‘Round the Horn’

PHONE ALARM ONE, ME ZERO
For those of you who remember my annoying alarm on my phone, I DID NOT get shut it off – guess I will have to read the instructions. Here is what the sea looks like at 4:30 am!
The sea was a little rough so there are some jiggles in these shots. The sunrise is beautiful, but definitely could be a little later!

After we left the Amalia Glacier, we contained to sail down the coast of Chile, encountering additional glaciers along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

USHUAIA, ARGENTINA

Until now we have been in Chile, but cross over into Argentina at Ushuaia, often referred to as ‘the end of the earth’. Established just 120 years ago as a penal colony, it now houses the Argentinean naval headquarters.

Ushuaia was established by felons sent down from Buenos Aires to build their own prison and town. They arrived in the winter and had temporary housing until they could build the prison. The prison was closed after the end of World War II.

Ushuaia is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego bounded by the Marital Mountains and on the south by the Beagle Channel.  There is a series of mountains (the sister  on the right and five brothers that mark the backside of the city). Something interesting: this area is called ‘Terria del Fuego’ because, when the conquistadors explored this area, they saw fires burning. The indigenous Yamana people were using fires to keep themselves warm. The Yamana name means ‘big feet’ and were naked and had extra layers of fat to help keep them warm.

Ushuaia is a city of immigrants, emigrating from all over the world. In one of the city intersections they fly the flags of all countries residing in Ushuaia. Since Ushuaia was only established a little over 120 years, it is quite modern and does not reflect the poverty of other Chilean country.

You will probably not see another selfie – I am absolutely horrible at taking them!

The Viking crew presented each of us with a plum pudding to celebrate Christmas.
 
 
 
 

AROUND CAPE HORN

Cape Horn is part of the Terra del Fuego archipelago, and has struck fear in the hearts of sailors from time immemorial. Considered the continent’s southernmost point, it is a prehistoric-looking mass of volcanic rock. The Cape Horn marks the colliding of the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean and marks the boundary Of Drake Passage.

The Drake Passage is the body of water between South America’s Cape Horn, Chile and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica. The Drake Passage opened when Antarctica separated from South America due to shifting tectonic plates.  It connects the southwestern part of the Atlantic Ocean with the southeastern part of the Pacific Ocean and extends into the Southern Ocean.

The Drake Passage is considered one of the most treacherous voyages for ships to make. Currents at meet no resistance from any landmass, and waves top 40 feet, hence its reputation as “the most powerful convergence of seas”.

The waters around Cape Horn are particularly hazardous, owing to strong winds, large waves, strong currents and icebergs. Often the seas have giant swells and rogue waves; there is no estimate of how many men and ships have gone down into these waters.

It was rainy, foggy and choppy when we rounded the Cape, but the captain commented that the last rounding was much worse. After completing ‘around the horn’ we received a certificate for our accomplishment.

The Viking crew again sponsored a cocktail for LGBTQIA+ cruisers and will provide a reserved area for us to celebrate New Year’s Day.

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South America & Chilean Fjords – A Little History

The earliest date of people in the Americas was about 33,000 BC. It is an accepted theory that humans and animals migrated from Eurasia through a couple routes: ice-free migration during the ice age or sailing along the west coast of South America.

After the last glacial age in 15,000 BC the land migration seriously began. There is no concrete date of maritime migration began, but must have taken years to move from Eurasia to the tip of South America.

There is evidence that indigenous people existed in South America around 22,000 BC, predating the last ice age. It is thought that animals also migrated with the indigenous people – drawings exist on cave walls that show predecessors of llamas. Each group settled in independent areas as they migrated down the continents. In many cases, each civilization didn’t even know there was anyone else on the continent.

Early civilizations were very sophisticated and have left us with amazing architectural feats such as Micchu Pichu.

The first Spanish subjects to enter the territory of Chile were the members of the Magellan expedition that discovered the Straits of Magellan before completing the world’s first circumnavigation.

When the Spanish first came to Central Chile the territory had been under Inca rule for at least 95 years. The Incas became a powerhouse with subsuming other natives and requiring that they contribute to their building and economy.

The end of the Inca culture came when the last Incan leader, Atahualpa, was conquered and ordered to accept Christianity and either be garroted or burned at the stake. The Incas believed that they come back after death (they even maintain house staff to tend to the mummified leader) so he chose to be garroted in 1583 so that his body would remain whole. Even today, Incas (there are about 1,000 who still claim to be Incas) believe in this practice.

The Spanish conquistadors came to South American and began conquest and anhillation of the indigenous people; charged with finding gold, the easiest way was to kill the natives and melt down their gold. Unfortunately, many of the artifacts from the Incas, Aztecs and Mayans suffered that fate so we are missing a lot of history of their lives.

By 1700, the Spanish influence began to wane and immigrants began to arrive. The legendary Mapuche chief Lautaro (Mapuche were a war-like tribe), assaulted and destroyed the fort of Tucapel. Accompanied by only fifty soldiers, the Spanish rushed to the aid of the fort, but all the men perished at the hands of the Mapuche in the Battle of Tucapel.

The continual history of Chile is that of being a pawn between the powers of the time: Spain, France, Britain, Australia, Norway, and New Zealand. Either through wars or treaties of acquisitions, the government changed at the whim of the world powers. Chile officially gained independence from Spain in 1810; then had a series of revolutions in 1836, 1851, 1859, 1891, 1973-1990.

Chile is currently writing a second attempt at a democratic constitution. Because of the nationalization of the U.S. copper mines, Chile is now stable and profitable and will join the G20 next year.

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South America & Chilean Fjords – Sailing to the Glaciers

Thursday was another sailing day, with calmer seas.

Viking sponsored a reception for LGBTQIA+ in a private lounge. They served complimentary champagne drinks colored to represent the gay flag. There were about 20 of us in the group. Several others did not attend. We are talking about having a separate New Year’s party.

One of the irritating features of being in the southern hemisphere is that the sun goes does around 10-11 pm and rises around 4 am. . . not much time to sleep if you have partied! And somehow I have set an alarm on my phone that wakes me up, so I have to jump out of bed to turn it off – did I ever think of sleeping with it on the bedside table? NO!

AMALIA GLACIER
Friday morning sailing was smooth as we sailed to Chilean fjords and the Amalia Glacier. This is part of the Archipelago with amazing rock structures breaking waves of the water. You cannot help but marvel at the power of nature. The massive glacier skirts the northern rise of the Reclus volcano right behind the glacier. The glacier is slowly eroding the volcano’s sides. In the last couple years, the glacier has frequently calfed (large chunks sliding into the water) and it has receded approximately 29 feet in the last couple years. This is the effects of global warming. If the entire glacier were to melt, it would raise the entire Pacific Ocean 20 feet!

The deep blue in the ice is a result of intense pressure compressing layers of ice and snow; the darker color is silt that has been dragged with the ice as it flows to the water.

In one of the pictures you can see ice that has broken off of the glacier.

Often  the glacier melts at the top of the mountain and waterfalls are created.

Friday night we were invited to a Shabbat dinner. We were seated with a couple from Asian India, who now lived in Toronto. It seems a lot of immigrants come to the U.S. and then relocate to Canada – we have probably met a half dozen or more. The gentleman worked for Xerox and his wife worked for Exon before they retired. I am not sure what he and Karen talked about (but they seemed deep into it), but his wife was very interested in how one gets and responds to a calling to ordination. It was a very pleasant evening, and Viking picked up the whole bill for about 40 people. They really support special groups with all kinds of extras. Another reason we will probably never cruise on any other company.

We began sailing south toward Punta Arenas, and saw a shipwreck from some time ago. The water and weather in this area is treacherous with a large ship like the Jupiter, let alone a smaller ship.

PUNTA ARENAS
Punta Arenas is a city and interoceanic port of the Southern Zone of Chile. It is the capital of the Chilean Antarctica. It was founded by the Chilean military in 1848 as a penal colony. Chile sent their undesirables and conflicts into this unoccupied territory, making the convicts build their own prison.

Unfortunately, we did not see Punta Arenas; I go too smart for my own good and went up and down 32 steps about 4-5 times and blew my knee. I went to the clinic and the doctor gave me a muscle relaxer and told me to take it easy. As a result, I have been using a trekking pole to walk and getting around in a wheelchair. Karen is getting to be a pretty good wheelchair driver!

Christmas Eve there was a modified interdenominational service which included readings and music.

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South American & Chilean Fjords – Days 1 through 4

We are off on an excursion that we never even thought of doing. . . we have been European-centric in our travels. Because the Peelers were not meeting for Christmas and a voucher from a cruise canceled by COVID, we decided to take a cruise to South America, including Chile, Argentina, Chilean fjords and glaciers, Cape Horn, Falkan Islands and Uruguay. We left Columbus on an afternoon flight for Atlanta, with a connecting flight to Santiago, Chile. Santiago is the capitol of Chile. From there we boarded a bus for a 2-hour drive to the Valaparaĺso port on the Pacific Ocean. Chile is bordered on the west by the Andes Mountains and on the east by the Pacific Ocean. At total of 2,500 miles, when squashed together it is bigger than Texas, and would extend from Winnipeg Canada to Mexico. Riding to Valaparaĺso, there are vast expanses of truck farms at the base of the Andes. In Santiago, the Andes are raw rock, but by the time you get to Valparaiso, they are tree-covered. VALAPARAĺSO Valparaíso was founded in 1536 by a conquistador, Juan de Saavedra, who named it for his birthplace in Spain, although another version suggests that Juan Bautista Pastene’s soldiers called the place Val del Paraíso, which eventually became Valparaíso. It is the major port of Chile and has been a welcoming place for immigrants for all countries. Much of the city was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1906. Many buildings were again heavily damaged in the 1971 and 1985 earthquakes, and in 2010 the city was almost demolished by another earthquake. It was so severe that the city lost almost two blocks of land – the inventive Chileans took all the damaged and destroyed buildings and push them out to sea and filled in with dirt and recreated the harbor. After Chilean independence in 1818, the port became the center for the Chilean navy and routes to Europe. There is a monument in the city square commemorating the branches of the service and an unknown soldier who died in the Pacific War between Chile, Peru and Uruguay (Chile won with its dominant navy). The harbor is perpetually busy with ships being loaded and unloaded, and I was amazed at the number of pelicans and other birds flying around. I found it amazing and a little upsetting that graffiti seems to be a national pastime in Chile. There is hardly a building or wall or pole that doesn’t have some type of graffiti or artistic murals on them. Wonderfully beautiful buildings are defaced with all kinds of spray paint. Chile exports 48% of the world’s copper and lithium. The Andes and other mountain ranges also contain trace elements needed for specialized applications. In the 1990’s the government of Chile nationalized the copper mines from the United States, thus making them a major market. You may remember the television coverage of 34 miners stuck over 2500 feet in a mine accident that were rescued after 13 days. The climate is right for vineyards, and Chile is a huge exporter of wine – their Malbec is on an equal to Argentinian Malbec. As part of the Valparaíso shore trip we went to a vineyard (would you expect anything less?). The William Cole Vineyards was originally purchased by a Montanan who made a killing in software development and decided to establish a winery. They not only grow their own camierer grapes (these will be ready next year), but also process for lesser vineyards to create Chardonnays and a small quantity of Malbec (which is on par with Argentina’s). The house in the background is where William Cole permanently relocated (not bad for a dude from Montana). Each of the barrels yield 250 bottles. And of course we had to have a wine tasting.             SAILING THE PACIFIC OCEAN The Pacific Ocean covers almost 64 million square miles and is an ocean of extremes. Twice the size of the Atlantic, it comprises around one-third of the planet’s surface and 46 percent of the world’s total water surface; it’s longest distance equals half the world’s circumference. There are approximately 25,000 islands, more than half the number of islands on the planet. The deepest point in the world is the famed Mariana Trench, some 35,797 feet deep. Sunrise and sunset on the ocean is magnificent and changes without warning. Those of you who know I am obsessed with clouds, now will know I am also obsessed with the sun and water. We sailed the Pacific for two days, but that didn’t suggest that we were unoccupied. Karen took bridge lessons and played Duplicate Bridge and I attended a workshop on taking photographs while cruising. There are also daily historic, economic and cultural lectures. Since neither of us had ever been to South America, these were very helpful. The gist is that Chile has been the center of all kinds of insurrections, tyrants (Allende and Pinochet), and finally working to become a successful democracy (they are currently working on the third modification of a Constitution). Tuesday we went to The Chef’s Table for dinner, which featured an Asian meal with accompanying wines. The amuse bouche was a Chilled King Crab mousse infused with coconut milk and curry. This was accompanied by a Rioja Ombra Biano. The first course was Lobster & Chicken Shu Mai dumplings accompanied by Muscadet Sevre et Maine from the Loire Valley in France. The palate cleanser was a Lemongrass & Red Chili Granita -lichee and lemongrass ice with a hint of hHinese red chilis. The main course as Peking Duck in three ways (crispy, breast and a dumpling with shredded duck, accompanied by Marius, a French Syrah.The meal ended with an Asian Trilogy of a chocolate banana spring roll, a yuzu creme brulee and green tea cheesecake, accompanied by a French desert wine Domaine Uby. Tuesday night the entertainment team presented an ABBA concert, which got the people up and dancing. They actually were not bad, unlike some on previous cruises. PUERTO MONTT AND PUERTO VARAS Wednesday we docked in Puerto Montt and traveled to Puerto Varas. Puerto Mott is the capitol of the Patagonia area (Chile has five major areas). Founded by German immigrants, it is a mix of German and Spanish architecture and restaurants. Active volcanos Osorno and Calbuco are the backbone of Puerto Montt. Puerto Varas’ Llanquihus Lake is the second largest lake in the Los Lagos area of Chile. The lake is not connected in any way with the ocean, and a resort for people escaping Santiago and Valparaíso. I learned some interesting things about the education system in Chile. The children go to school from 8 am to 6 pm; they are provided a healthy breakfast when they get to school, and a healthy lunch at noon, and another healthy dinner before they leave school. The thought is that this will ensure every child gets nutritious meals, but also limits the amount of junk food. Our guide said when they get home, all they have to do is take a shower and go to bed. Puerto Varas is called the ‘city of roses’, and has roses everywhere. The scent is delightful and the size of the buds are amazing. Varas has two active volcanos: Osorno and Calbuco; Calbuco was completely covered by clouds (it was a drab, drizzly day), but you could see Osorno peeking out of the clouds. Wednesday sailing was a little (no, a lot) rocking. We hit some bad weather and the waves over 4 feet high buffeted the ship. Almost all activities except sit-down lectures were cancelled to protect the passengers and crew. Everywhere we went people were either hugging the walls or attached to the rails. Neither of us was adversely affected, except we walked like we were drunk. Thank goodness by Thursday the worst was over. There have been some magnificent sunsets and sunrises. As the sun went down Wednesday there were some interesting light patterns on the mountains that I had never seen before.
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Farewell to Windmills

Our last stop on the cruise was at Kinderdijk, land of windmills. Kinderdijk is a small village outside Amsterdam, with 19 windmills dating from the 1500s. Nowhere in the world where you can find so many windmills concentrated in such a small area.

The first human inhabitants of this area settled here after the last Ice Age, around 10.000 years ago. The ice had not reached the area itself, but eolian deposits created high points in the wet environment. These high points were places where hunter-gatherers settled.

More than 25% of the Netherlands is located below sea level. For centuries, the Dutch have lived at or below sea level, building farms, houses, towns, and entire communities on land reclaimed from the water. The windmills of Kinderdijk were built to keep the low-lying lands dry. The windmills were used to pump water up from the low-lying polder (low-lying land reclaimed from the sea and protected by dykes) into a slightly elevated basin or reservoir. Then, at low tide, locks would be opened and sluice gates lifted, and the excess water would drain from the reservoirs into the river, at which point the cycle could begin again.

“Kinderdijk“ literally translates as “child dike”, and it’s widely believed that the name comes from a local folk tale. In this tale, a legendary flood forced locals to flee their homes in terror of the water. As they returned, a basket containing an orphaned baby was discovered in a nearby canal. A cat was also found inside the basket, moving around to keep things balanced and thus ensuring the child’s safety during the journey. The tale later became The Cat and the Cradle, and the story of the child floating in the dike gave the area its name, Kinderdijk.

The Kinderdijk mill complex consists of 8 stone brick windmills which were built in 1738, 8 thatched windmills built in 1740, 2 stone windmills built in 1760 and 1 windmill which was built in 1521 and burned down in 1997 (it was restored and has been operational since the spring of 2000).

Kinderdijk is the final mill station before the river Lek takes water to the North Sea. Even today rainwater needs to be moved from the canals, but since the 1950’s the function of the windmills has been taken over by a turbine pumping station. However, in case of an emergency, the windmills still can be used.

The windmills of Kinderdijk were also family homes; three are museum mills, where it’s possible to go inside and see how the mill families lived. The spaces are very cramped, with the mother cooking outside the mill to prevent fire. The Nederwaard Mill Museum housed a family of thirteen. In the case of this windmill, the mother heard one of the children running around and sensed he had gone outside – the sails were spinning and she ran out and grabbed the child to save him. Unfortunately she was hit by the sail and died. That left the miller with eleven children to raise by himself. They didn’t say, but I bet he found himself another wife!

The mills are mostly built of stone, either in a conical shape or tapering slightly towards the top. The sail blades are constructed with timber, as is the machinery inside, while the sails themselves were made of cloth. The top, also called a poll end is made of wood looks like an upside-down boat. It turns so the sails can point into the wind and it contains the brake.

Every morning when the miller wakes, he assesses. based on the direction of the wind, how he needs to change the direction of the sails to move the water. He does that by releasing the brake (large chain) on the cap, then using the wheel to rotate the cap to the right position. It takes a lot of strength to move the cap, even though it is on wood ball bearings. Then he re-engages the brake and moves to the back of the mill.

The sails often are secured so they don’t move unless necessary to move the gears inside the mill. In order to unfold the sails, the miller has to climb to the top of the sail and unwind the rope that ties the cloth, unfold them across the wooden structure, tie them to the opposite side of the sail, and then secure them as he climbs down the sail.

These gears are turned by the wind from the sails. They are hand carved wood and massive. Gives you an idea of why there are cramped quarters in the rest of the mill.

The work of the miller is extremely hard work and not for the ordinary man. Each miller must have completed courses in water management and been certified by the local water board before he can be a miller. The windmills are owned by the water board, so he has to rent it for himself and his family. If there are accidents or the mill doesn’t function properly, he can lose his position and they all have to move out. But, often times, the miller trade is passed down from father to son. Some windmills had smaller replicas in the back where the father would begin to teach the son the trade.

One essential part of a miller’s equipment is his wooden shoes. In order to move all the gears and wheels and climb the sails, the miller has to have shoes that will not slip or slide and can sometimes act like a hammer when moving the cap and the sails. And wooden shoes do not absorb water. Each member of the miller’s family has a hand carved pair of shoes; in the winter or if they don’t fit, the miller’s wife knits very heavy wool socks, not only to keep the feet warm, but also to fill the shoes if they are too big. The decorated shoes that everyone associates with the Dutch are for tourists only; those worn by the miller were utilitarian.

Thought I would share pictures of some of the 19 windmills in the area:

So, this was the end of a marvelous cruise – one that we had been anticipating for more than two years. We are ready to go again soon!

One of the new found friends from the cruise sent this picture of us from the last dinner. It is just about the only picture we have that actually looks good.

Until the next time, signing off,
Travelogue Tilly

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Odds and Ends

We are finally home – with quite a story trying to get here. We were scheduled to fly from Amsterdam on an early flight to Detroit. However, because there was a computer chip problem with the plane and our flight was canceled. They rebooked us on the only other flight about 4 hours later. Sounds good – but that flight did not get into Detroit until AFTER our connecting flight to Columbus has departed about an hour earlier. Since in the scope of things, Columbus is not one of the most popular destinations, so there was no plane later in the evening. They offered us a plane getting into Columbus around midnight, but we would have to take our chances with standby. We had already been up since 4 am and were not in a mood to possible not get on the plane, and THEN have to get Delta to put us up for the night.

So we got vouchers for a motel and meals. It was obvious why the Windham Garden Suites was under new management. The whole place was slightly seedy; the dining room was closed as well as the bar and the room was worn. I was so tired that I immediately fell into bed while Karen took a shower.

Since the restaurant was not open, we had to order supper from a local pizza place that delivered. To say the chicken and artichoke pizza was passable was a compliment. The best thing about this was the bed was great and the duvet cover extra thick.

We caught the 12 noon flight. The funny thing was they wanted two people to take a later flight for $400 – this was the flight we were supposed to take on Monday. We looked at each other and said ‘No Way!’

Jeremy was a gem and picked us up at the airport and we got home after 1 and started the ‘return to home and get unpacked and do laundry’ routine. Karen started feeling like she had a head cold and by the evening was hiding under the covers with the electric bedsheet on.

Concerned she might have Covid, we did a home test and it showed up positive. We got an appointment with CVS for verification and by the evening we had confirmation. So now, she is ensconced in our bedroom and I am in the barroom on the sleeper sofa. We both wear masks when we are near each other, and I am wearing one almost all the time. Since I have had four full vaccinations, I do not need to isolate myself, but wear my mask and limit contact with her. Karen has five days of this self-isolation and then both of us will take another home test. Hopefully, she will have a negative result and I will not have gotten it. We are crossing fingers and toes and anything else possible. Karen is still experiencing some chills and aches, but these have greatly decreased.

UPDATE: she just passed through from the kitchen on the way back to bed and said “if this is a light case. .

The Rhine River has many cataracts so we were often going through locks to continue sailing. We had to navigate 63 locks on the trip. It was interesting to look out the balcony door and see a lock right smack up against the boat. Because the use of the locks is closely controlled, we followed a rigid timetable – otherwise you had to wait until another free time slot, which would make you late for the next lock. Most of the locks occurred during night sailing.

Here are a few pictures of the longboat that I haven’t included in earlier travelogues.

The third deck contained a running rack (12 laps equaled a mile) and other amenities.

 The Aquavit (water of life) Lounge area extended out to the open space in the second deck. All meals could be eaten in the dining room or at Aquavit Lounge.

On previous cruises, lunch and dinner were buffet-style; breakfast is either served or buffet. They have the best scrambled eggs in the world (or at least, I think so!) – the hens are not forced to lay so the yolks are a bright yellow, almost orange – and all the butter they used to scramble them makes them absolutely delicious. Almost all the food served is farm-to-table, so you are getting the freshest ingredients.

I don’t know whether it is because of Covid or a feature of the new type of longboat, but now the main dining room has white tablecloths and wait persons dressed in black pants and vest and white shirts. It adds a sense of elegance that I really like. Because this is a new boat, the napkins were so stiff that you had to pry them apart. You order from a menu and they deliver your meal – you can still eat everything on the menu if you wish, but there is a regional special each night featuring the food of this area. And, unlke America, the portions are appropriate so that you don’t feel stuffed after dinner. As customary, you can have wine at all meals (including breakfast), and you have to be vigilant or they will keep filling up your glass.

You may not know this, but storks are precious birds in the area of the Rhine River. Throughout the Rhine area you can see stork nests on the top of buildings, particularly churches. Often there is a committee within the village that is responsible for the maintenance of the nests – some of the older nests can weigh as much as a ton. Storks as monogamous, migratory birds, spending the winter in Sub-Saharan Africa; it is a village celebration when they return.

Catholic legend says that when a couple get married, they put a sugar cube outside on their window, and the stork delivers a baby. A little slight variation on our story of storks and babies.

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Liberty, Asparagus and Gingerbread

Nestled among vineyards, its traditional houses, canals, floral displays, amazing cuisine, famous wines and charming accommodation make Colmar an outstanding microcosm of Alsace – showcasing its lifestyle, conviviality and hospitality – the key features of its unique, exceptional welcome. Colmar retains a ‘country town’ atmosphere which contributes so much to its charm. Wonderfully preserved from the ravages of time.

The capital of the Alsacian wines, situated near Germany and Switzerland between the Vosges and the Rhine, Strasbourg and Mulhouse, offers visitors an exciting glimpse of 1000 years of European history.

Although now located in France, it has a history of occupation – it has been under French and German rule, and during the Thirty Year’s War, was even ruled by Switzerland. It was officially deeded to France in 1697. In 1854 a cholera epidemic wiped out much of the city in 1854. With the rest of Alsace, Colmar was annexed by the newly formed German Empire in 1871 as a result of the Franco-Prussian War; it was returned to France after World War I, annexed by Nazi Germany in 1940, and then reverted to French control after the battle of the “Colmar Pocket” in 1945.

Mostly spared from the destructions of the French Revolution and the wars of 1870–1871, 1914–1918 and 1939–1945, the cityscape of old-town Colmar is renowned among tourists, crossed by canals of the river Lauch (which formerly served as the butcher’s, tanner’s and fishmonger’s quarter) is now called “little Venice” (la Petite Venise).

The field that looks like it is covered by white plastic, actually is. This is a field of asparagus. Germans have obsession with white asparagus. In order to create white asparagus, the rows are covered with black and white plastic. The black plastic prevents all light from entering the growing spears, the white lets limited light in. As the season advances, the plastics are reversed as needed to keep the asparagus as white as possible. Unfortunately for us, 65% of all fresh white asparagus is marketed in Germany – the only thing we can get is pickled in brine. Asparagus has only about 19 calories per stem which makes it a great diet food. But in Germany and France they add ham, boiled potatoes, and Hollandaise Sauce, which makes it a lot less low-calorie.

One of the most famous residents of Colmar was French sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, best known for designing Liberty Enlightening the World, commonly known as the Statue of Liberty. At the entrance to the city is the original model for our Statue of Liberty. When completed, France decided it was too small and made Bartholdi resculpt it into the size we have.

Currently an overlay has been added to show the French support for the Ukrainians.

 


There are many works of Bartholdi in Colmar and surrounding villages, as well as in other countries. The statue of Christopher Columbus used to reside in Providence, Rhode Island, but was removed in 2020.


A statue memorializing the support of France in our independence with George Washington and the Marquis de Lafayette with the French and American flags,  is in Washington, DC and Paris. Most people do not know this even exists.

 


The Église Saint-Martin (St. Martin’s church) is a Gothic Roman Catholic church.  In 1972, remains were archaeologically dug out of a first church, built around the year 1000. Foundations of a second church built on that spot, in Romanesque style, were found as well. The present building had been constructed between 1234 and 1365 as the church of a college devoted to the cult of Martin of Tours (patron of poor, soldiers, conscientious objectors, tailors, and winemakers). The cult has since been disbanded.

One of the features of Saint Martin’s is a life-sized depiction of the Last Supper.


One of the most famous sites in Colmar is the Isenheim Altarpiece, created by Nikolaus of Haguenau and Matthias Grünewald at the Unterlinden Museum. It was painted for the Monastery of St. Anthony in Issenheim near Colmar, which specialized in hospital work. The Antonine monks of the monastery were noted for their care of plague sufferers as well as for their treatment of skin diseases, such as ergotism (a disease caused by ergot in grain resulting in convulsions and gangrene of the feet).

With the exception of certain holy days, the wings of the altarpiece were kept closed, displaying The Crucifixion framed on the left by the martyrdom of Saint Sebastian pierced by arrows and on the right by Saint Anthony the Great, who remains placid even while being taunted by a frightening monster. The two saints protect and heal the sick, Saint Anthony as the patron saint of the victims of Saint Anthony’s fire, and Saint Sebastian, whose aid was invoked to ward off the plague.

The image of the crucified Christ is pitted with plague-type sores, showing patients that Jesus understood and shared their afflictions. The veracity of the work’s depictions of medical conditions was unusual in the history of European art.

As we strolled the streets, we came upon this building called ‘Maison de Tetes’, containing over 100 heads of people, animals and mythical creatures.

In tribute to the vintners in the area, in a nook is the Little Vitner of Colmar, dumping the cask of wine in his mouth. Based on the size of the boy and the amount of wine, he better stay seated on that post!

The Colmar area is also famous for their gingerbread men (homme en pain d’épices). Gingerbread has a long history. An early form of gingerbread can be traced to the ancient Greeks and Egyptians who used it for ceremonial purposes. Experts trace gingerbread’s roots to around 1500 B.C.E. in Ancient Egypt. Honey cakes—flavored with ginger and other spices—have been found in pharaohs’ tombs, along with written references to the confection.

It wasn’t until about 992 C.E. that a monk named Gregory of Nicopolis brought gingerbread from Greece to France. This wasn’t a unique occurrence—many spices native to the Middle East became commonplace in northern Europe during the Middle Ages.

In the Alsace area, there are stores dedicated to the production and selling of gingerbread men.

We saw this truck on the way through the city and initially thought it was a truck full of wine corks – oh, no! The people of this area heat their homes with wood pellets and this was a truck delivering these pellets to homes (much like the coal man would in ‘olden days’).

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